UES built the New Purcara around a custom blend of three distinct cotton varieties, each chosen for a specific purpose. The outer yarn combines hand-picked Desi cotton with organic Ugandan cotton, producing a surface that feels unusually dry, dense and textured. At first touch it reads closer to wool than cotton. Inside, brown Zimbabwean cotton brings a softer, loftier feel against the skin and adds another layer of depth to the fabric's character.
It's a sweatshirt that feels unlike most loopwheel knits. Dense and substantial, with irregular texture and natural variation throughout. As the fabric breaks in, the surface softens and develops a slightly mottled hand, revealing more of what's in the yarn blend.
Knitted slowly on vintage circular machines in Wakayama, the New Purcara sits in a tradition of Japanese sweatshirt production that drew collectors to loopwheel garments decades ago.
The construction is classic: tubular body, flat seam assembly, reinforced V-insert collar, robust ribbing throughout. The update is in the cotton itself, a refinement of the original Purcara formula into something more distinctive.
Fit is neither slim nor oversized. Slightly dropped shoulders, enough room to layer under a denim jacket, chore coat or military outerwear.