What’s the difference between horsehide and cowhide

Horsehide is denser, stiffer, and develops a more dramatic patina than cowhide. Brands like Double Helix favor horsehide for its longevity and historical authenticity in heritage-style jackets

How do I break in a stiff leather jacket

Consistent wear is key. Don’t force the leather — let it mold naturally. High-end jackets from Double Helix are designed to break in gradually, rewarding patience with rich character

Where can I buy high-quality horsehide jackets online

Look for authorized retailers of Japanese heritage brands. Double Helix is available through specialty stores like URAHARA STORE, or via select Japanese boutiques

What makes a high-quality horsehide leather jacket

A high-quality horsehide jacket uses full-grain leather, often vegetable-tanned for durability and character. Brands like Double Helix in Japan are known for mastering this process, creating heirloom pieces that age beautifully

How does Double Helix compare to other Japanese brands like The Real McCoy’s or Freewheelers

Double Helix shares the same reverence for American vintage styles as brands like The Real McCoy’s or Freewheelers, but focuses more exclusively on horsehide and clean, modern tailoring. Their jackets are often considered slightly more contemporary and accessible in silhouette.

Who is Double Helix and what sets the brand apart

Founded in 2017 in Tokyo, Double Helix is a Japanese brand specializing in high-end horsehide leather jackets. Known for heritage-inspired design and exceptional craftsmanship, the brand blends classic Americana with Japanese precision and luxury materials.

What types of leather does Double Helix use in their jackets

Double Helix primarily uses premium horsehide sourced from the U.S. and Europe. The hides are vegetable-tanned using traditional Japanese techniques, resulting in leather that is durable, structured, and develops a rich patina with wear.

What is tea core leather and why is it special

Tea core leather refers to black-dyed horsehide where the surface is black, but the inner layers retain a natural brown tone. Over time, the black finish wears away in high-friction areas, revealing the brown underneath — creating a unique vintage look. Brands like Double Helix are known for using tea core horsehide in their jackets, combining this beautiful aging effect with expert tailoring and traditional Japanese tanning techniques.

Double Helix

Established in 2017, Double Helix is a distinguished brand based in Tokyo, Japan, renowned for its exceptional leather jackets. With a focus on blending classic heritage designs with a contemporary touch, Double Helix utilizes the finest horsehide sourced from around the globe to create a diverse range of outerwear. From rugged trucker and edgy asymmetrical motorcycle jackets to military classic's such as the A-1 and A-2 and stylish quilted vests, their collection exemplifies timeless craftsmanship.

The brand emphasizes domestic production and attention to detail, resulting in products with a distinct texture and artistic vision crafted by skilled Japanese artisans.

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Double Helix

Double Helix Classic 1930's Jacket - Black

$2,600.00 AUD

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Double Helix

$300.00 AUD

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Frequently Asked Questions

In February 2017, Matsuda and Jay decided to launch their own luxury horse leather brand. Jay, with his knowledge of men's jackets and leather manufacturing, quickly designed products and developed original leather. However, due to the unique sewing requirements of the high-density horse leather, finding a suitable sewing factory proved challenging. Fortunately, they made a fortuitous connection with skilled craftsmen who work for renowned Japanese brands, allowing them to establish a dedicated production line for their Double Helix products.

When it comes to sourcing materials, Double Helix is uncompromising in their commitment to quality. They meticulously select the finest 1.3 – 1.5mm hides from Poland, ensuring each piece meets their stringent standards. Employing a proprietary and enhanced traditional Japanese vegetable tanning process, they utilize environmentally-friendly solvents provided by the esteemed German company, Bayer. This meticulous attention to detail enables Double Helix to surpass the industry's highest standard PFI benchmark testing.

With a focus on quality and a reliable partnership with domestic tanners, Double Helix ensure the availability of high-quality and original horse leather. Double Helix horse leather products have gained a reputation for their quality and unique design's and as the brand are revered as pioneers in the field.

As with most things, Japan is highly considered for it's leather production and garment manufacturing using premium leathers.

Shinki Leather Tannery is renowned for its exceptional quality and craftsmanship in the leather industry. Based in Himeji, Japan, Shinki Leather has been producing top-grade leather since 1951.

The tannery is known for its meticulous selection of raw materials and its commitment to traditional tanning techniques. They specialize in vegetable tanning, a process that utilizes natural extracts from tree barks to transform raw hides into durable and beautiful leather.

Their leathers are widely used in the production of luxury goods such as footwear, bags, belts, and wallets. Many renowned brands and craftsmen around the world choose Shinki Leather for its consistent quality and ability to elevate their products.

When it comes to leather jackets, Japanese manufacturers often combine traditional techniques with modern innovations, resulting in jackets that exhibit both timeless style and exceptional durability. They pay great attention to the selection of premium materials, such as high-grade leathers sourced from reputable tanneries, to ensure the utmost quality in their products.

Japanese sewing techniques are highly regarded for their precision and expertise, while Japanese artisans and manufacturers take pride in their work and strive to produce products of the highest quality. This dedication to craftsmanship, combined with the fusion of traditional and contemporary approaches, has cemented Japanese manufacturing companies' position as industry leaders in the realm of leather jackets, captivating customers who appreciate the meticulous artistry and superior craftsmanship found in their creations.