What’s the difference between horsehide and cowhide

Horsehide is denser, stiffer, and develops a more dramatic patina than cowhide. Brands like Double Helix favor horsehide for its longevity and historical authenticity in heritage-style jackets

How do I break in a stiff leather jacket

Consistent wear is key. Don’t force the leather — let it mold naturally. High-end jackets from Double Helix are designed to break in gradually, rewarding patience with rich character

Where can I buy high-quality horsehide jackets online

Look for authorized retailers of Japanese heritage brands. Double Helix is available through specialty stores like URAHARA STORE, or via select Japanese boutiques

What makes a high-quality horsehide leather jacket

A high-quality horsehide jacket uses full-grain leather, often vegetable-tanned for durability and character. Brands like Double Helix in Japan are known for mastering this process, creating heirloom pieces that age beautifully

How does Double Helix compare to other Japanese brands like The Real McCoy’s or Freewheelers

Double Helix shares the same reverence for American vintage styles as brands like The Real McCoy’s or Freewheelers, but focuses more exclusively on horsehide and clean, modern tailoring. Their jackets are often considered slightly more contemporary and accessible in silhouette.

Who is Double Helix and what sets the brand apart

Founded in 2017 in Tokyo, Double Helix is a Japanese brand specializing in high-end horsehide leather jackets. Known for heritage-inspired design and exceptional craftsmanship, the brand blends classic Americana with Japanese precision and luxury materials.

What types of leather does Double Helix use in their jackets

Double Helix primarily uses premium horsehide sourced from the U.S. and Europe. The hides are vegetable-tanned using traditional Japanese techniques, resulting in leather that is durable, structured, and develops a rich patina with wear.

What is tea core leather and why is it special

Tea core leather refers to black-dyed horsehide where the surface is black, but the inner layers retain a natural brown tone. Over time, the black finish wears away in high-friction areas, revealing the brown underneath — creating a unique vintage look. Brands like Double Helix are known for using tea core horsehide in their jackets, combining this beautiful aging effect with expert tailoring and traditional Japanese tanning techniques.

Double Helix Classic 1920s Horsehide Leather Jacket – front view showing shawl collar and button-front closure.

Double Helix Classic 1920s Horsehide Leather Jacket – front view showing button pockets and button-front closure.

Double Helix 1920s Horsehide Jacket – dual flap pocket and tonal stitching detail.

Double Helix 1920s Horsehide Jacket – cinch buckle waist adjuster close-up.

Double Helix Classic 1920s Horsehide Jacket – back view showing cinch-back waist adjuster and classic vintage fit.

Double Helix 1920s Horsehide Jacket – horn button and stitching detail.

Double Helix 1920s Horsehide Jacket – rounded shawl collar and button-front detail close-up.

Double Helix Classic 1920s Horsehide Jacket – paper hang tag with product details and sizing.

Double Helix Classic 1920's Jacket button details

Double Helix Classic 1920s Horsehide Leather Jacket – interior lining detail

Double Helix Classic 1920s Jacket – Japanese tea-core horsehide showing black finish with brown core beneath

Double Helix 1920s Horsehide Jacket brass cinch buckle waist adjuster detail

Double Helix Classic 1920's Jacket lower button detail

Double Helix Classic 1920's Jacket - Black

$2,300.00 AUD

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Size: 38

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Description

This Double Helix 'Classic 1920s' Horsehide Leather Jacket is a meticulous reproduction of early American workwear, capturing the understated style and utilitarian charm of pre-zipper era outerwear. Modelled after jackets from the 1920s, it features a rounded shawl collar and traditional button-front closure, both hallmarks of the period. Crafted from black tea-core Japanese horsehide, the leather wears to reveal a natural brown core, adding depth and character over time. With a boxy, functional fit and vintage detailing like a cinch-back waist adjuster and four-hole buttons, this jacket is pure vintage Americana for the discerning collector.

Inspired by early 1920s American work and leisure jackets
Button-front closure with classic rounded shawl collar
Japanese tea-core horsehide with brown core beneath black finish
Dual flap pockets and tonal stitching throughout
Cinch buckle waist adjuster for fit refinement
Four-hole buttons and traditional button cuffs
Boxy, functional fit with heritage construction
Made in Japan

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The Double Helix Classic 1920s is a stripped-back, beautifully made nod to early American workwear. It's the kind of jacket that speaks volumes without trying too hard. With its rounded shawl collar and button-front closure, it leans into a pre-zipper simplicity that feels refreshingly timeless today.

The boxy cut keeps things relaxed and functional, while the tea-core horsehide adds serious depth: black on the surface, with warm brown tones waiting to come through as it breaks in. Over time, you’ll get that layered patina that only great leather can deliver. Details like the cinch-back waist, dual flap pockets, and traditional four-hole buttons keep it true to the era, but the overall vibe is surprisingly versatile.

Throw it on over denim and boots, or even loose trousers and a knit. It’s got that lived-in, utilitarian charm that just works. If you’re into vintage shapes and clean, minimal design with real substance behind it, this one’s a gem.

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Double Helix Classic 1920's Jacket - Black