Denim Repair & Hemming Service

Our Denim Repair and Hemming Service is built on integrity and authenticity using heritage machinery.

The legendary Union Special 43200G is the same class of machine used by vintage American factories during the golden era of workwear production and every Japanese denim brand. Unlike modern lockstitch hems, a true chain stitch creates the subtle roping effect that denim enthusiasts value. As the fabric shrinks and fades over time, the hem develops natural puckering that enhances character rather than fighting against it. The result is a finish that looks and ages exactly as it should, preserving the original spirit of your jeans.

For repairs, we rely on a Singer 47W70, a specialist darning machine designed for precise and durable reinforcement. This machine allows us to rebuild worn areas with dense, controlled stitching that integrates into the fabric structure. Instead of patching over damage, darning restores strength from within. The repair moves with the denim, holds up to daily wear, and blends naturally as the garment continues to fade. It is the difference between a visible fix and a considered restoration.

Denim Repair & Service - URAHARA

Frequently Asked Questions

Chain stitch hemming is a traditional method of shortening jeans using a specialised chain stitch machine rather than a standard lockstitch sewing machine.

Most tailors use a lockstitch machine which creates a flat, rigid hem.

A chain stitch hem, produced on machines like the Union Special 43200G, creates slight tension and movement in the fabric. As the denim shrinks and fades, this produces the roping effect denim enthusiasts look for.

At URAHARA all hemming is done on a vintage Union Special 43200G, the original chain stitch machine used on classic American workwear and Japanese selvedge denim. This produces a true chain stitch hem that develops natural roping over time.

It is the correct finish for selvedge denim & all premium jeans.

Darning is a specialist denim repair technique that rebuilds damaged fabric by stitching cotton thread back and forth through the worn area.

Instead of placing a patch over the hole, darning recreates the structure of the original denim by mimicking its warp and weft construction. The stitching interlocks with the existing fabric, reinforcing it from within rather than simply covering the damage.

This method is ideal for crotch blowouts, knee holes and areas of heavy friction, as it restores strength while maintaining the look and feel of the original denim.

We regularly carry out the below repairs :

  • Crutch blowouts.
  • Knee holes.
  • Pocket blowouts.
  • Seat wear.
  • Thigh friction damage.
  • Belt loops.
  • Seam repair.
  • Button replacement.


If you are unsure send us a message via the form and we can discuss further with you.

Our denim repairs are completed on a vintage Singer 47W70 darning machine, a specialist industrial machine built specifically for fabric restoration.

Unlike a standard sewing machine, the 47W70 has no feed dogs pulling the fabric through. This allows us to manually control the stitch direction and density, rebuilding the damaged area thread by thread. The cylinder arm design also lets us work inside tight areas such as the crotch and upper thigh without opening major seams.

Instead of stitching a patch over a hole, we recreate the structure of the original denim by layering cotton thread into the worn area. This reinforces the fabric from within and distributes stress across the repair.

For small to moderate holes, this technique can produce near invisible repairs, especially as the denim continues to fade and blend over time.

While no repair makes denim brand new again, our goal is to restore strength, maintain comfort, and significantly extend the life of your jeans.

Yes. We offer our chain stitch hemming & denim repair service for customers all across Australia and worldwide.

Your jeans can be mailed to us from anywhere. Simply order the service you require and send your denim in. You can include a pre paid return satchel, or we can complete the work and invoice you with return shipping once finished.

Of course if you are based in Melbourne you can visit us in-store.

Yes. We love to work on raw denim, selvedge denim, heavyweight denim and Japanese denim where possible. We understand how these fabrics behave and repair them accordingly.

We can work on all types of denim including stretch denim however it's important to understand that stretch denim has its limitations due to the nature of its synthetic (plastic) fibres.

Crutch blowouts are one of the most common denim repairs. We use a Singer 47W70 darning machine to rebuild the worn area with dense stitching that restores strength without bulky patches.

The repair reinforces the fabric from within and is designed to last.

Turnaround times vary depending on workload and repair complexity however we are always working on jeans throughout the week and have a specialist operating on Saturdays. Typically all orders are ready for pickup the following Monday.

If you need it by a certain date please contact us first and we will do our best to accommodate you.

No. We shorten jeans the traditional way by cutting the denim to the correct length and finishing it with a new chain stitch hem. You will advise us of the final inseam length that you require and the final result will be that length.

This is how jeans were originally hemmed at the factory and is the correct method for quality jeans. It allows the hem to age naturally and develop roping over time.

Some alteration services offer an original hem preservation method, where the factory hem is removed and stitched back on higher up the leg. While this keeps the visible factory edge, it creates an additional seam above the hem and changes how the denim falls and fades.

If you have a specific reason for wanting to retain a unique or distressed hem and need advice get in touch with us and we can discuss options and recommend a solution.

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