URAHARA Journal - Waffle & Honeycomb Weave

This winter we have built a strong capsule collection around Waffle and Honeycomb knit sweatshirts, undershirts & cardigans from Japanese heritage brands Belafonte and Addict Clothes.

 Waffle weave knitting, also known as honeycomb knitting, dates back to the 18th and 19th century throughout Europe and was used mainly for blankets and towels for its source of warmth. In the early 20th century Japanese textile manufacturers recognised the unique appeal and versatility of the waffle weave pattern and began experimenting with different yarns, knitting techniques, and machinery to enhance and refine waffle knit fabrics.

 In the 1930s, Wakayama Textile Co. began producing waffle knit fabrics using specialised machines pared with high-quality, long-staple cotton yarns. These yarns are carefully selected for their durability, softness, and ability to hold up to the rigours of daily wear. These fabrics were used primarily for workwear and sportswear due to their durability and breathability. 
The Wakayama area is now synonymous with loopwheel t-shirts, sweatshirts and knitting just as Okayama known for selvedge denim.

Waffle weave fabric is perfect for winter weight garments such as sweatshirts as the texture of the weave produces air-pockets between the fabric and the skin. These air pockets act as an insulator that keeps the wearer warm. As well as being a good insulator the texture of the weave make the fabric less prone to tearing and pulling which made it a fabric of choice for heritage workwear.

From Belafonte Ragtime Clothing we see this waffle weave used in their Super Heavyweight WV Thermal Sweatshirt. A Belafonte original heavy weight fabric made from 100% cotton on the vintage looms mentioned above. Inspired by 1920's heritage workwear its constructed with a 4 needle flat seam to give an authentic, period correct finish. We are featuring the Belafonte Super Heavyweight WV Thermal Sweatshirt in three versatile colour-ways this season, Soaping Ivory, Smokey Salt 'N' Pepper and Smoky Ash Grey.
Belafonte topsbeing a touch shorter in length, make them perfect for styling with mid to higher waist jeans or chinos for a true heritage feel. 

From Addict Clothes ACVM we see their take on the waffle weave using a textured knit that has more of a ribbed finish. This style of kitting creates a multidirectional pattern to the fabric that is quite unique giving it a more rugged, hard wearing feel to a light weight knit. Being light weight making them the perfect layering piece under a heavy jacket or worn over the top of a shirt during the shoulder seasons. The Cardigans have been finished with tonal Corozo nut buttons that are sustainable, durable and have a unique grain.
The Hooded Sweatshirts have a discrete hand warmer pocket and drawstring hood for a classic style. 

Rats have taken a Native American inspired approach that ties in with their seasonal collection and brand DNA. A more modern and bolder design aesthetic  while paying respect to heritage clothing and silhouettes.

The Native Kanoko Knit Cardigan is a perfect example of mixing Native American inspired designs and patterns with traditional Japanese knitting techniques. Kanoko knitting forms a durable textured fabric that has a spot like effect on the surface, similar to waffle knitting. Using 100% cotton it's tightly spun to create a hardwearing, textured surface that is more resistant to pulls and abrasions. The Native Kanoko Knit comes in two colour-ways this season in Brown and Black.